Cannes, an international jet-set hub on the Côte d’Azur and—especially during the film festival—a stage for the rich and famous, is increasingly developing into a sought-after hotspot for luxury perfumery as well. The occasion is the TFWA World Exhibition & Conference, which takes place at the end of September. A glamorous "who's who" of luxury and niche perfumery now gathers around this international trade fair for duty-free and travel retail—the sale of goods at airports and on cruise ships, for example.
What I remembered from last year as a relaxed alternative to the usual fragrance trade fairs turned out to be a very special kind of parade this time. I should have seen it coming. At Nice airport, I was already greeted by gigantic video walls featuring the latest Amouage creations. In Cannes itself, an unmissable banner for the latest scent from Nishane was draped across the facade of the famous Carlton Hotel. Over the following days, plenty of parties, cocktails, dinners, and lunches in the luxury hotels and beach clubs along the Croisette awaited my inclined visit—ample photo opportunities included. The scheduled presentations with brand representatives, for which I had actually traveled there, almost faded into the background. One might get the impression that the trade fair primarily offers the industry a practical excuse to celebrate itself. This applies to the brands just as much as it does to the obviously ever-growing crowd of influencers.
Of course, parties and receptions are part of business. You meet like-minded people, cultivate contacts, and sometimes have better conversations over a glass of champagne than between two tightly scheduled appointments. But this time, the balance seemed to shift. The social program took the leading role, and party-hopping was the result. For me, it was a new experience to see that it was apparently more important where, when, how, and with whom you appeared than what you could take away in terms of content. And by that, I explicitly do not mean the obligatory goody bag containing the latest launch.
But—and this remark is also directed at the brands—anyone who decorates facades on a large scale, occupies villas, beach clubs, yachts, and rooftop terraces, and hosts spectacular evenings is, first and foremost, presenting themselves. The new fragrance is present in some way, yes, but it plays a rather secondary role. This is entirely logical, given that perfume brands increasingly see themselves as lifestyle brands. With names like BornToStandOut or Fugazzi, one can observe just how closely fragrance, aesthetics, and attitude are interwoven. You are supposed to recognize an entire world and want to find yourself in it. A party with a dress code makes this world accessible for one evening. Afterward, you can take the perfume home as a wearable memory. The only question is how much attention its story still receives.
The logo-emblazoned photo wall, complete with photographers, now belongs to the inventory of almost every major event. Pictures of the guests are often published while the party is still in full swing. This way, one learns almost live who is there, who is standing next to whom, and which dress harmonizes particularly well with the background. The perfume can be discussed later. First, it must be documented that an event is taking place where you are present and others would like to be. For the guest list, this development has understandable consequences. Anyone planning a social production needs people who contribute to it. A famous name, a beautiful face, or a spectacular dress can be more relevant to the desired images than the ability to analyze a fragrance down to its final base note. Fragrance influencers occasionally note this with a certain irritation: "Why is he or she even invited? They don't have a clue," is a comment heard not infrequently, with the underlying question: Why not me, as an expert?
A party is not a business meeting. No one has to prove their professional expertise there. Even the perfumer is allowed to simply have a drink now and then. Perhaps they might even want to dance instead of having a guest explain to them at length everything they might have discovered in their work. Anyone who understands an invitation as confirmation of professional authority or as a reward should keep in mind that a photogenic appearance has its value for this occasion. And even a specifically invited expert may, in the end, only serve to "make up the numbers." Because after the party, the carousel keeps turning. Pictures are shared, press releases are sent out, and ultimately, the fragrance reaches even those who were not allowed to receive it in person at the party via seeding. The broad unboxing wave follows. Within one’s own social media bubble, it can then easily seem as though there is hardly any other perfume out there. Who this omnipresence actually reaches is another question. Have we become so accustomed to this sequence that we are already mistaking it for public interest?
Certainly, this can generate demand in retail. After all, end consumers also follow influencers and brands on social media. Yet the mere visibility of a bottle does not reveal whether its story has been received. What does the independent retailer, who is supposed to explain the fragrance later, actually learn, and do their customers even know why they would like to try it? Presumably, the actual mediation work only begins with a conversation, a test strip, or a decanted sample. Here, beautiful pictures can finally turn into a personal experience.
Especially in a challenging economic environment, the visible effort is remarkable. Is it an expression of strength, a conscious investment in attention and market share—or just a demonstrative "now more than ever" in a fiercely competitive industry?
A dance on a volcano is probably difficult to distinguish from a successful growth celebration in photos. I know neither the budgets nor the results of these events. A full dance floor is as little an indicator of economic success as it is of waste. But I think it is a valid question to ask by what metrics the industry measures its impact. By published photos? By attending names? By sent packages? Or by whether people actually want to get to know a perfume and ultimately buy it? The brand can show its appearance, the agency its publications, the creator their content. Everyone is visibly involved. What remains of that in the long term must be considered separately.
Perhaps it is therefore worth keeping an eye on the small paths of discovery alongside the grand appearances. A good conversation, an unexpectedly attentive recommendation, a sample that actually lands on the skin. For working with perfume, a well-curated discovery set and well-founded information can be at least as revealing as a spectacular launch. Ultimately, what matters is what you can say about the fragrances once the party is over.
